After sifting the 1st layer on and firing it in the kiln, this is what the pieces look like. The white ones all have a coat of white enamel, and the red ones have a coat of enamel flux on it.
There are several things I want to point out. First, the 2 pieces with the flux on them. Notice that they are red? The flux isn't red. It's clear. The reason the pieces are red is because of the oxidation process in copper. The back is worse looking. Black.
You don't have to completely clean the back before you apply your counter enamel if you don't want to, but you really need to give it a good brushing to get the chunks off.
Counter enameling is very important. And I learned that the hard way. Maybe I'll do a post on what not to do when enameling....;)
Counter enameling simply means applying enamel to the backs of the pieces as well. There is some kind of reaction between the glass and the metal that has something to do with the way pressure is exerted on it or something. Real scientific, I know. All I do know is, that applying enamel to both sides keeps the enamel from coming off. Very important.
Another thing I want to point out is, and it's especially noticeable in the white pieces...see how it's kinda spotty looking? It needs more layers of enamel. This is where the process gets time consuming but also exciting because each sifting gets you closer to the finished project. For example, on the lacy pieces, I enameled about 8 layers before I was happy with the results.
I used the lacy eyelet pieces to make a pair of earrings. From start to finish including all the sawing and refining of the shapes to the enameling and finishing with ear wires, they probably took me about 2 hours to make.
This is where my "how to" will end. As a beginner myself, this is just about all I can tell you. I will tell you one more thing...In between each firing, take a glass sanding block and smooth the surface of the piece. I've noticed that it really helps in the overall smoothness of the final piece.
I have read that enameling takes a minute to learn and a lifetime to master. I learn something new every time I sit down to enamel. I hope you have as much fun as I do enameling!
Showing posts with label how to enamel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to enamel. Show all posts
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Monday, February 14, 2011
Enameling basics-Step 5 the first firing
I took this picture when the kiln was cold. The pieces in the photo aren't sifted with enamel. I just wanted you to get an idea of what it looks like going in and out of the kiln.
So. You have sifted on the first coat of enamel. This would be the front of all of your pieces.
Once the kiln has reached melting temp, open the door and gently place the firing trivet in the kiln. You want to do this quickly and as safely as possible. Close the door. It takes a minute or so for the kiln to reheat back up to melting temp.
My kiln has a little window that you can look in. It is cool to watch the powdered enamel change. It goes from the powdered form, to a sort of orange peel look and then finally smooth and glassy.
When it is smooth and glassy, it's time to come out. I know this is vague. With my somewhat limited experience, I don't have the timing down to a precise science.
What I've read, is to check every 60 seconds to see if your enamel has reached the smooth glassy stage.
For me, the glare of the kiln is really hard on my eyes. I only like to look in there if I have my welding glasses on. The bad part about that is that I can't really see the surface of the pieces that well.
So, I watch the temperature on the outside of the kiln. I wait until it has reached close to the max melting point and wait about 30 seconds, and take the pieces out. You can always put them back in and repeat the firing process. It doesn't hurt anything at all.
Really all in all, the firing time is about 3 minutes. It happens quickly enough that you don't really have time to work on anything else, but not so quick that you don't start to think you should really be doing something else while you're waiting. If that makes sense.
I usually try to sift the next layer on other pieces real quick while keeping an eye on the temperature. You can't get distracted and forget or the pieces may over fire and get burnt.
All right. Next step, we'll see what those pieces look like when they come out of the kiln.
So. You have sifted on the first coat of enamel. This would be the front of all of your pieces.
Once the kiln has reached melting temp, open the door and gently place the firing trivet in the kiln. You want to do this quickly and as safely as possible. Close the door. It takes a minute or so for the kiln to reheat back up to melting temp.
My kiln has a little window that you can look in. It is cool to watch the powdered enamel change. It goes from the powdered form, to a sort of orange peel look and then finally smooth and glassy.
When it is smooth and glassy, it's time to come out. I know this is vague. With my somewhat limited experience, I don't have the timing down to a precise science.
What I've read, is to check every 60 seconds to see if your enamel has reached the smooth glassy stage.
For me, the glare of the kiln is really hard on my eyes. I only like to look in there if I have my welding glasses on. The bad part about that is that I can't really see the surface of the pieces that well.
So, I watch the temperature on the outside of the kiln. I wait until it has reached close to the max melting point and wait about 30 seconds, and take the pieces out. You can always put them back in and repeat the firing process. It doesn't hurt anything at all.
Really all in all, the firing time is about 3 minutes. It happens quickly enough that you don't really have time to work on anything else, but not so quick that you don't start to think you should really be doing something else while you're waiting. If that makes sense.
I usually try to sift the next layer on other pieces real quick while keeping an eye on the temperature. You can't get distracted and forget or the pieces may over fire and get burnt.
All right. Next step, we'll see what those pieces look like when they come out of the kiln.
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Enameling Basic-Step 3
I normally have my disposable gloves on at this step, but forgot to put them on for the pics.
This step is important because (from what I've read) enamel doesn't like to stick to dirty metal. Even the oils in your hands can prevent the enamel from adhering properly.
The method I use to get the metal as clean as possible is pumice. I buy it in a powdered form from Rio Grande. I throw a handful in a container, add water until I have a nice runny mud.
I like to use scotch bright pads. I just cut them down into little squares.
Give all the pieces a thorough scrubbing on both sides. Once they are all scrubbed, rinse thoroughly in water. A way to test your pieces to make sure they are totally clean is to dip them in water. If the water slides right off, they are clean enough. If the water beads up on the piece, you've got more scrubbing to do.
Be careful after they are scrubbed and clean to keep them that way. I never handle them again without my disposable gloves on.
Next step, sifting and getting ready for the first firing!
This step is important because (from what I've read) enamel doesn't like to stick to dirty metal. Even the oils in your hands can prevent the enamel from adhering properly.
The method I use to get the metal as clean as possible is pumice. I buy it in a powdered form from Rio Grande. I throw a handful in a container, add water until I have a nice runny mud.
I like to use scotch bright pads. I just cut them down into little squares.
Give all the pieces a thorough scrubbing on both sides. Once they are all scrubbed, rinse thoroughly in water. A way to test your pieces to make sure they are totally clean is to dip them in water. If the water slides right off, they are clean enough. If the water beads up on the piece, you've got more scrubbing to do.
Be careful after they are scrubbed and clean to keep them that way. I never handle them again without my disposable gloves on.
Next step, sifting and getting ready for the first firing!
Friday, February 11, 2011
How to: The basics of enameling Step 2
Yesterday I posted a picture of my jeweler's saw, and the copper shapes that I planned on enameling today.
After finishing the sawing, filing and sanding of my pieces, I gathered up my supplies to get started enameling.
This is a picture of table that shows my enameling fork. My trivets and firing stands. You'll also see my welding safety glasses, my particulate respirator, my fire gloves.
A jar of enamel, sifters, my glass sanding block, KlyrFire (used as an adhesive to get the powdered glass to stick) in a spray bottle. A box of disposable gloves.
The shoe box holds all my jars of enamels, and all my supplies when not in use.
Keep in mind, that I am a beginner at enameling. I am completely self taught, so if there is anyone out there reading this that sees any glaring omissions, please let me know!
The second I'm finished getting out my supplies, I put on the particulate respirator. You need to work in a well ventilated area, and always wear a mask! Enameling powder is ground glass. You do not want to be breathing that in! I've read that these glass particles can hang around in the air for up to two hours. Not to mention that many enamels are leaded. (not all)
So, I think that about covers this picture. If you have any questions let me know. Step 3 coming soon!
After finishing the sawing, filing and sanding of my pieces, I gathered up my supplies to get started enameling.
This is a picture of table that shows my enameling fork. My trivets and firing stands. You'll also see my welding safety glasses, my particulate respirator, my fire gloves.
A jar of enamel, sifters, my glass sanding block, KlyrFire (used as an adhesive to get the powdered glass to stick) in a spray bottle. A box of disposable gloves.
The shoe box holds all my jars of enamels, and all my supplies when not in use.
Keep in mind, that I am a beginner at enameling. I am completely self taught, so if there is anyone out there reading this that sees any glaring omissions, please let me know!
The second I'm finished getting out my supplies, I put on the particulate respirator. You need to work in a well ventilated area, and always wear a mask! Enameling powder is ground glass. You do not want to be breathing that in! I've read that these glass particles can hang around in the air for up to two hours. Not to mention that many enamels are leaded. (not all)
So, I think that about covers this picture. If you have any questions let me know. Step 3 coming soon!
Thursday, February 10, 2011
The basics of enameling- Step one
Blogging again from Flickr!! (I think I really like this!)
I am getting ready to do another day at the kiln enameling some pieces, and I thought I would document the process in photos.
I think the process is absolutely fascinating. So here we have step one. Saw the shapes out of copper, pierce where the holes go. Saw again.
Fine silver, copper and gold can all be used as the metal base for enameling.
Then comes the refining of the edges by filing and sanding.
I included a pic of my jewelers saw. Which incidentally, I am a little peeved with. After breaking about 6 blades I switched back to my old jewelers saw.
I'm not sure "The Knew Concept" is going to get another chance.....
I am getting ready to do another day at the kiln enameling some pieces, and I thought I would document the process in photos.
I think the process is absolutely fascinating. So here we have step one. Saw the shapes out of copper, pierce where the holes go. Saw again.
Fine silver, copper and gold can all be used as the metal base for enameling.
Then comes the refining of the edges by filing and sanding.
I included a pic of my jewelers saw. Which incidentally, I am a little peeved with. After breaking about 6 blades I switched back to my old jewelers saw.
I'm not sure "The Knew Concept" is going to get another chance.....
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